Home Remodeling How To Series: Bathroom Design

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By JD Esajian

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Bathroom Design

From a resale perspective, after a kitchen, bathrooms tend to be the 2nd most important room in a house. They are also the 2nd most expensive room to rehab due to wide variety of materials, skills and laborers involved. Unless the bathroom is in excellent shape, it is recommended to replace majority of its components. Today’s home buyers demand the “new construction” feel in the bathrooms, so it is a good idea to cater to this trend. This investment usually pays off in the form of a quick offer and lower holding costs. In our experience, saving money on this part of the house has always ended up costing more due to difficulties with finding a buyer or requested credits at the closing for improvements.

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In homes with only one bathroom, it is vital to also consider installing another ½ or a full bath by borrowing space from adjacent rooms. This is especially true for any homes with 3 or more bathrooms as your prospective buyer will most likely be a family with children. Having an extra ½ or better yet a full bath is an expected convenience from today’s buyers.

That being said, lets talk about some features that should be considered when planning bathrooms.

Planning and Layout

The first step to designing a bathroom is determining what needs to be removed and creating the layout. Generally, the bathroom design is dictated by existing layout of plumbing, although at times, there are opportunities to functionally alter the flow of the bathroom space. In a house with one small bathroom, it is worthwhile to consider borrowing space from adjacent room or closet. Generally, the decision on the extent of demolition is based on three questions:

  1. Is the layout staying “as is” or is there an opportunity to change the layout and make for more space or improved functionality?
  2. Are the fixtures and hardware dated and should they be replaced?
  3. Does the tile need to be replaced? (Cracked or missing pieces are nearly impossible to match).

Once these three questions are answered and communicated to the contracting team through a blueprint the demolition can begin.

The following are few simple rules of thumb for planning a new layout:

General

  • The bathroom entrance door should not interfere with people in front of fixtures.
  • Fixtures situated so two people can use the space comfortably.
  • Toilet in separate section or when possible shielded from entrance view.

Bath/Shower Tubs

  • A minimum shower size of 34″ x 34″.
  • A minimum 60″ x 30″ of open floor space in front of shower/tub.

Sinks

  • A minimum 15″ of clearance space from the centerline of a sink bowl to a wall.
  • A minimum 30″ of clearance space between the centerlines of double-bowl sinks.
  • A minimum 30″ x 48″ of open floor space in front of the sink.

Toilets

  • A minimum 16″ from the centerline of a toilet to a wall, or adjacent fixture.
  • A minimum 48″ x 48″ of open floor space in front of the toilet.

Rough Framing

In “full gut” situations, this stage entails framing in of new walls, flooring and space dividers. In addition to framing in new components of a bathroom, it is prudent to investigate for water damage and reinforce/replace any damaged affected portions of flooring, walls and ceilings. Use 2″ by 6″ lumber for bathroom walls to allow for holes for plumbing and electrical. Certain fixtures such as bathtubs, some types of showers and recessed cabinets require special framing work.

Plumbing, Electrical Rough, and Ventilation

During this stage, the plumber and the electrician begin their work. They “rough out” all the electrical wires and plumbing pipes in the bathroom. It is vital to clearly communicate the location of sinks, tubs, hardware, lighting fixtures and switches. Make sure that the electrical components have GFCI (ground fault circuit interrupter) electrical circuit protectors. Also, there are some noteworthy rules of thumb for installing plumbing that should be familiar to an experienced plumber:

  • Drains for lavatories should come out of the wall at about 17 inches above sub floor
  • Water pipes for lavatories should come out of the wall at 21 inches above sub floor
  • Most lavatories have faucets with 4 inch centers, which means there are 4 inches between cold and hot water pipes when measured from the center of a pipe
  • If installing a new toilet, a closet flange should measure 12.5 inches from a stud of a wall
  • There should be a minimum of 15 inches to either side of the flange without hitting a wall
  • Water supply for the toilet should be installed 6 inches above the sub floor and 6 inches to the left of the center of a drain
  • Bathtub drains should be located 15 inches off the stud of a wall
  • Bathtub faucets should be located 12 inches above the flood level
  • Shower faucets should be installed about 4 feet above the floor and shower head 6.5 feet above the floor

In order to avoid mistakes, communicate the final layout through a graph paper sketch and tape/spray paint markings on the framing. After plumbing and electrical rough are done, it is time to call in the inspector before proceeding to close the walls.

“Sizzle Features”

These are design features that are added that help sell the house. They make the bathroom “pop” and stand out among the other houses on the market. As we teach in our rehabbing course and live training you should always try to include at least 3 “sizzle features”

  • Lighting : few people look at lighting as a bonus feature but using dramatic lighting will greatly enhance the overall appearance of the room. Decorative light bars, spot lighting, and dimmers are all examples of exciting ways to alter your bathroom lighting. It doesn’t take much here to make a drastic difference.
  • Accent Tiling : Using accent tiles in your floor, sink backsplash and tub/shower surround are all examples of keys areas to add “sizzle”. For example, using a few decorative tiles in the floor to match a sink backsplash is a great way to create a custom bathroom at a fraction of the cost. (Flip Tip : using a 12″x12″ decorative tile and cutting into 3 strips is a great way to create a accent border in your tub surround and save money)
  • Body Sprays : In this day and age nearly everybody knows what a shower body spray is. When you gut a bathroom and install all new plumbing, it is very cost efficient to install body sprays. You can go as simple as adding a diverter and 2 additional body sprays or you can make your shower like a “car wash” with an overhead rain shower head, hand held sprayer and body sprays from all angles.

Kitchens and bathrooms sell homes. You hear that all the time because it is true. Choosing the correct layout, design and finishing materials in these rooms will help you sell your home quickly and maximize your profit potential. You will also get the most dollar return for dollar spent in these rooms. We always teach our students to stay within a budget, but if you do decide that you have some extra money in the rehab budget, the kitchens and baths are were you should spend it. A well thought out design as well as adding enough “sizzle features” and will make these the best room in the house. So get out there and start rehabbing.


To find out more about our life changing home study courses and live seminars, see them using the corresponding links or email us at info@fortunebuilders.com.

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Comments

5 Responses to “Home Remodeling How To Series: Bathroom Design”
  1. Robin says:

    When would you use acrylic tubs vs tile in a single family rehab?

  2. jdesajian says:

    Robin, for a single family flip, you should always go the tile route. Only use acrylic tubs for multi-families.

  3. Robin says:

    Thanks, will do!

  4. Javier Painting says:

    Enhance your bathroom by bringing in hip and stylish transitional bathroom lights for a fresh new look. Javier Painting

  5. johnny says:

    Thanks for good post

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